الأقصر - Al Uxor - Luxor Egypt

Luxor Photo Album - Set #1 Here

Luxor Photo Album - Set #2 Here

A day by day account of my experiences.

Habu

Inner court of Habu

Karnak puzzle peices

View from hostel roof top

Pharaoh and wife

Nile ferries at a stand still becuz of lacking tourism

Temple of Ramses with valley of the kings in distance

Karnak pillars 

water collection

Day 1
Crossing on upper Egypt's coast was beauty that instantly brought tears to my eyes. It was unlike anything I've ever seen before, a stark contrast of desert sand and royal blue ocean. Faults of land cracking like veins across a leaf, stretch for endless miles. The Nile valley began shortly after fading into a lush oasis that geometrically stretched out from the ever winding Nile. Once the plane landed and we stepped out the doors, the smell was incomparable to any one particular scent. The warmth I had been longing for, sandy air with a sweet stench of shisha and bonfires in every breath. A smell that I will never forget. Not bad, just... Different.

The airport was simple, as a woman traveling alone they were interested in me and I was overwhelmed just by the amount of staff helping me while ignoring others in line before me. I tried to blend in but it did little good. Apparently I speak Arabic well, as upon saying ' mahabar, kayf haalak' - hello, how are u- I was surrounded by men rambling on in Arabic about... I dont know what. Then when I said - la afham. Laa Arabeya - I dont understand. No Arabic. - this look of shock came over they're faces. And they helped me in english.

Exiting the airport is scary, so many taxis after your dollar. They started walking me off into the distance and I turned around. 3 of them ended up getting into a big argument and suddenly I was pushed into a taxi. At this point I was scared, clinging to my drumsticks I always carry in case I need a weapon. I know I got royally ripped off on the taxi ride, but I was expecting that and really it was worth paying the extra since it avoided me some hassle. So I asked him to take me to the Bob Marley hostel, tho he tried numerous times to take me to other places. Can't even count how many times I had to say no in Arabic with a stern voice. Eventually he pulls up to the hostel street which I'm told is at the end of this shady slummed alley. I get out and feel everyones eyes on me, thinking. What the fuck just happened? But before I start to totally panic, I see the glistening twinkle of lights behind an always safe haven of red gold and green. They make me tea and let me play the guitar and I felt better. After having a smoke another guy comes, who I'm not sure has anything to do with the hostel in hindsight. He was staring at me so hard and when the manager left, gestured to me to take off my wedding ring, pointing to me and then him followed by a simple and obvious sign for sex. Luckily, the manager came back and quickly showed me to my room where I proceeded to have a total breakdown. A wedding ring, whether or not u are married, is invaluable here. Within an hour I was asked 4 times along with my religion, to which I responded, Allah, Christ, peace. gesturing the symbol. Best to stay on both sides I think.

After recovering from my melt down and locking my belongings to the bed in a most ridiculously paranoid manner, I went downstairs and played guitar for them and drank more tea. They offered me hash but I declined. Enough paranoia for today thanks.  In all honesty. This hostel ROUGH, BUT really cool. I'm writing this on the most enchanting rooftop terrace and the owner is very nice. I have concluded that despite it's semi low level of comfort, I really am staying in one of the coolest places I could be. Besides the Winter Palace of course.

It's so loud. Constant horns and prayer chants ringing into the distance at sunrise and set especially but late into the night as well. I thought Bermudians beep their horns alot. HA! NOTHING in comparison. I'm dying to brush my teeth but realised last minute I have no bottled water and decided it wasn't worth the risk of me brushing them and getting sick.. Plus, it's dark and I just don't have it in me to venture out after sun down tonite. Tho I was told by a British lady who lives here that she feels safer here than where she lives in London. I feel terrible that everyone is probably freaking out but I'm just not comfortable wandering out in the dark purely to contact them. For my 1st complete culture shock and initially feeling so panicked. I thought I pulled myself together quickly and am feeling a like a fresh day is ahead of me 2mrrw.

Day 2

Woke up at 6 and ventured out initially feeling like everyone who saw me didn't want me here, tho I was covered head to toe. Probably got ripped off on some water but really have never needed it so much in my life, so who cares. Came back, brushed my teeth and chilled on the rooftop mulling over how out of my element / what a bad idea this was. But I was determined to embrace this and feel accepted as a traveler that respects Egyptian culture. So I learned some more Arabic and ventured out again.

Immediately a huge group of young boys came chanting up the street, blocking traffic, full of smiles, grabbing my hands saying welcome to Luxor and asking my name. It was so such a shock how they welcoming me and wanted to know about me, tho very overwhelming. Everyone asks questions and thanks me for coming and tells me of their hardships since the fall of Mubarak and lacking tourism. From that point out, the attitude I must have imagined was replaced only with love, respect and gratitude.

I was finally convinced into a carriage ride which was so much more fun then I thought it would be. At the time it was purely for transport but he let me drive and told me some interesting things. I'll definitely be using the same man for my sight seeing carriage ride.

It is difficult to be here right now tho becuz everyone relies so much on tourism and there is basically no one that doesn't have prebooked tours. It is a constant no thank you, being followed, convinced and being seen to many as a walking dollar sign. Tho, once again, I'd be the same if I was them. I met some Kiwi's who I could see were having trouble warding off the horse rides and taught them how to say no thank u. We went to the Temple of Luxor together, less hassle inside but the guards can seem shady and want to walk u off into obscure parts of the temple. My assumption is they're harmless tho and just wanted to show us other things. Nothing could prepare you for it's height and vastness. To think that the entire structure was dug out of the sand or that it was even built in the 1st place is, for lack of a better word, amazing. It's hard not to feel as if your being rude, constantly turning down offers for feluccas and carriage rides. They all say no hassle but have little understanding for the word, tho once again, it's understandable considering. Walking around with the Kiwi's brought consistent comments remarking on what a lucky man David is to have 2 wives. To which he responded once, "I'll trade you 1 wife for 2 camels." hahahaha There is an array of reasons we could all be together but apparently that is at least the 1st thought for most men. There's a sense of humor in many Egyptians that I had not expected at all. Most surprising tho is the amount of construction, half finished buildings, dodgy masonry and sea of satellites. Considering it's 3rd world, the amount of construction happening is astounding. I also expected a more tourist friendly town considering the only reason this town is here essentially, is the tourist attractions left behind by their ancestors. It is a small town and not easy to get lost but I realise now tourism is an art and Egypt hasn't quite got it down. As a lone traveler winging it and avoiding English tours at all costs, it is a satisfying feeling every time you accomplish anything.

My feelings of being unwanted and panicked are completely erased. I'm in awe of this country and her people. Even with blisters on my feet and my sinuses feeling like I did a line of sand, I'm completely content on this roof top, listening to Bob Marley, enjoying the spoils of my nomadism.

Day 3

The Kiwi's, a man named Phil from the hostel and I made plans last nite to set off to the west bank early today. Grouping together to save on a taxi for the day. Caught the ferry over and negotiated a taxi on the way. The car was hilariously ghetto and Syed (our driver) basically jumpstarted every time. We covered Medinat Habu, the Ramessuem, the Temple of Hatshepsut (Al-Deir Al-Bahari Temple, the tomb of Merenptah, Ramses III and IIII and the Temple of Seti I.

My favourite by far being the first. Once again, you cannot prepare yourself for the magnitude of these structures. All of them. It's easy to feel like a noble walking though any number of them, imagining the shear numbers the Egyptians had to complete colossal projects. The designers, carvers, painters and masons, farmers, black smiths, and cooks needed must have been immense. Every single corner and wall proved to be interesting, telling stories across every inch of stone if you know what to look for. My 'guide' (people who cling to you, tell u things, force you to 'walk like an Egyptian' and take pictures of you, wanting $ later) was really good and showed me ALOT. I tipped him well in return and shared the info with my friends, whose guides were not so versed. He really helped me to imagine what it was like in it's day, once dripping with gold on every surface. He took pictures of him and I and was constantly remarking on my beauty, mildly uncomfortable but funny and worth it. In almost every temple faced are chipped away, wanderers, raiders and christians have carved their names or crosses into the stone. How arrogant the human race can be. To come across such astounding monuments and structures, that surely surpass your owns history yet feel the need to leave your mark on them. I just don't understand it. It must have been a most peculiar jealousy or undeserved right to feel. I always thought everything was sandy stone, hard but easily carved, but a vast amount is granite, huge slabs of hard stone intricately carved and transported up the Nile from Aswan. We really don't have the slightest clue how they did what they did and it find it so fascinating and ironic that one of the oldest cultures was in many ways far more advanced than our own. On the way to the Valley of the Kings, we stopped at a place where Syed's friend carves the many Egyptian trinkets we associate with tourism. He gave us a lesson on how he carves and what each stone is and where it comes from, obviously we were asked to buy things, which we did as we all felt better buying from him than someone who didn't make it themselves. He ending up giving us free scarabs to protect our homes, a necklace, free drinks and another small scarab I had picked up several times. After leaving what I thought a wonderful experience, where we had the chance to converse with an educated, English speaking Egyptian about Egyptian politics and art, Phil shows me he stole several things which I am still VERY irritated about. I want to like the French, I really do, but I have never had a good encounter, in fact, it's always been absolutely terrible. I hope this changes when I go there. (wow. Phil walked onto the roof top literally, while I was writing that.) I am still astounded at his actions after the man was so hospitable to us. I know I didn't spend as much as I should have but still. It made me so angry. He proceeded to be completely unimpressed by everything we saw and eventually remarked "once you've seen Machu Pichu, Angor Wat and the Taj Mahal, you've seen it all." The Kiwi's and I are confused as to why he bothers traveling if not in amazement of a culture or it's history. We assume just to mark it off on the map. I have since found what I believe to be the carvers address and sent him 20 EGP. Mostly at my own expense but it made me feel better. We finished the day at the Sheraton pool and the Kiwi's gave me the best present any backpacker could ask for, a hot shower in a fancy room. Now I'm completely exhausted after stuffing myself on chicken tajer at 'The Jewel of the Nile'. I'd be the 1st to admit its tourist targeting but it was great food and great service. Surely, in the lonely planet guidebooks from the look of it but there were also wealthy Luxorians there. I walked home in the dark through a kind of regular festival I assume, with children playing everywhere and music blaring. I feel so safe here. Just as the lady on the plane said, safer than London. It's content hellos and welcomes, often not from people trying to sell you things. Sometimes just passing you on the street. Walk around in awe with a smile on your face and there are even more hellos. The youth are fascinated by me and ask as many questions as they can in English, wanting to know about my tshirt, tattoos and what I think of Obama and Mubarak. Everyone is so happy and have high hopes for the turn around of their country now that he has stepped down. The older generation say they longed for it in their time and have substantial pride in the youth for accomplishing what they had always hoped. I never expected to feel this accepted and could have never hoped for it either.

Day 4

A slow start of wandering and a Falucca ride to banana island set the tone for a relaxed day on the rural side of Luxor. Our sailors were wonderful and told us of how they protested and about what they're day to day lives year round consisted of. I concluded I could eat bananas all day if they always tasted like that. The Kiwi's and I ate a great, off the beaten trail lunch, tho it was pizza, and headed to Karak for the light show, which we all agreed was the only mistake on our travels and agreed to meet tomorrow to experience it for what it should be. 100EGP wasted learning the lesson unfortunately. We all feel like we're burning through $ so fast and continually remind ourselves that it is basically 2 USD to 10 EGP. We also agree that while everyone is lovely and nice to us, no one can be trusted. One person saying that another will go to the army for information, keeping secrets of who smokes hashish and who doesn't. The only people I feel I can trust is the men of the hostel and a carriage driver I have a particular bond with after discussing our heart breaks and him continually not letting me pay him. His horses are in a handful of obviously well fed ones with names like Cassanova. He never has the same horse out 2 days in a row and he lets me drive, often on the condition of me singing for him. For the 1st and hopefully last time in my life, I sang "I Will Be Your Hero" by Enrique Iglesias. Haha maybe I will send him some real music.

Day 5

I woke early and set out to organise my affairs and hit the Luxor Museum, which was absolutely amazing. Do not miss it, it's worth the 80 EGP. Everything is well labeled and well lit, which apparently is a rarity. There I met a lovely man who's interest and knowledge in Egyptology provided me and experience at both the museum and Karnak, I certainly would have not had without him. I'm sad I'm leaving today as I would have loved to have spent more time with him. After packing up my stuff and being rushed out of the hostel due to something about the police, he walked me to the train station. I think I have scored myself a private sleeping car, tho I dare not speak too soon. It is a long journey to Cairo, 9 hours. Yes! The train is moving. Private sleeping car accomplished! My first real train experience. Never thought it'd be in Egypt. Shedding the long sleeves immediately. I can understand why one of the hottest countries in the world would follow such a religion. Their uncomfort is obvious and I have felt it myself wearing less. Anyone who's spent some time topless on a beach would surely never return to it. The ancient Egyptians were mostly topless and wore much less. They had it right as far as I'm concerned. It seems to me that Luxor was once an enchanting and beautiful town that had the infrastructure to support it's population, (the British did the majority I believe) but now it has grown beyond what it can accommodate and only remnants of a charming and dreamy town exist. The rest is trash, dodgy construction and unfinished or unfixed everything. Don't get me wrong, I just had the most amazing time, saw the most amazing things and concluded of all the 3rd world nations to visit, Luxor is probably the safest and most fascinating towns, but I do hope it will one day return to the dreamy town you see the evidence that it once was. It seems to me, the easy money from tourism has caused there to be little farmers but many mouths. There are very able men who sit and smoke shisha the entire day, whether that is becuz of the lacking work, I can't say. The west bank is laid back and seems to support itself, but the east bank is a mess, struggling to support its 3/4 million population.